$25, Canon PowerShot SX600 HS $250 But the MSRs are a bit lighter and easier to use and has heel lifter for hills. I have honed it from almost 25 years of climbing and it works for me. Dual Point Alpine Pants $199, Patagonia Look at. Some people like Google ChromeBook. Can easily be top layer. Everest summiter in 2011 and oldest American to summit K2 at 58 on his birthday July 27, 2014. when all else fails, set for return to camp. No need for huge down jackets or heavy Gore Tex if you have the proper layers underneath - even on Everest, K2, or in Antarctica. First Ascent Hangfire Hoodie $100, Patagonia I actually use this for High Camps and the -20 for BC. The site is a tome of mountaineering information, with loads of insights and personal accounts from Alan’s many expeditions, as well as a great resource for anyone interested in Mount Everest – the site features Alan’s yearly chronicles of the Everest climbing season, dating back to 2004! Worth the price. Make sure you consult with a qualified physician who has experience with altitude. Alan Arnette is an alpinist, speaker, and Alzheimer's advocate. Sunglasses have keeper cord and go around my neck as I leave camp, even if dark to enable quick access as sun hits. $50. Use only Merino wool on this layer because it does not stink, wicks well and one pair of tops and bottoms can last literally weeks on a long expedition. Must have for the Nalgene when at altitude or in deep freeze environments. These are videos I have taken on my climbs around the world including Everest, K2, Denali, Aconcagua, Rainier, Colorado 14ers and more. My favorite brands include Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear and Black Diamond. Double vs single wall - depends on the amount of rain you camp in. A critical layer for protection. recharge laptop from battery. relief from boots in the tent and to stay warm in sleeping bag.The Forty Below are excellent and worth the price. This is your primary layer exposed to the elements 80% of the time so buy the best you can afford and it will last for decades. TNF VE-25 is still the best expedition BC tent ever but a little heavy at 12lbs. Alan Arnette : It will not surprise me if climbing does not resume until Spring - Katmandu Post Chalten 2020 - Patagonia Season detailed report - pictures on Colin Haley's website - Skagit Alp How a personal trainer claimed records on the AT and PCT - from OutsideOnLine 8. Use on all camps above basecamp. Warning: Thuraya SIMs must be renewed annually so verify your subscription before leaving home. ice climbing and alpine mountaineering boots. Alan Arnette is a climber coach, mountaineer, professional speaker, and Alzheimer's advocate. your username. 4lb 8oz - good weight for -20 bag 4. Also, taking information from the internet is dangerous. Nikon D60 $300 - $800. Pants have full length zips. Hood makes it all work. Photo: Alan Arnette. I like the Stanley nested cups with lid, the simple Rubbermaid tupperware bowl to eat with Lexan big spoon. The links provided are for your convenience and I do not earn any money when you click on them. Alan Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimer’s Advocate. Power Plus m4e $200, Mountain Hardwear Alan Arnette is an Everest and K2 summiter who writes a popular blog on mountaineering at alanarnette.com. They have reached Camp 4 and … Absolutely my most frequently used piece of clothing due to it's flexibility and quality. “We have most of our gears in our Camp2 which is just below Black Pyramid. Log In. I regulate my body temperature with my top layers plus use the Buff neck gator to manage airflow from my jacket. Not a rain shell but surprisingly effective in a stiff breeze. All rights reserved ©1999-2021 www.alanarnette.com. He has completed over 30 major expeditions including four Everest climbs, with a summit in 2011, and a summit of K2 in 2014. Arnette Straight Cut Polarized Sunglasses,OS,2314/83 Matte Black/Havana/Brown. The latest 2016 versions are far superior with improved zippers, filling and soles. Always have snack in pocket for easy access. Switched from Capiline to Merino wool since it wicks and maintains warmth better. See more of Alan Arnette - Climbing to End Alzheimer's on Facebook. • Everest 2020 Coverage • Compare the 7 Summits, www.alanarnette.com is provided for informational purposes only and not to be used for advice. Rain Shadow Pant $150, Patagonia: Houdini Arnette D-Street Unisex Polarized Sunglasses - 447/81 Fuzzy Black/Fuzzy Havana/Grey. Tops must have deep zips and collars - manage core temperature via venting or pull up to protect neck from sun and/or cold Layer next to skin must be merino wool - breathes, wicks and doesn't stink plus feels good. My standard mid layer these days. Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover Hoody $150 teeth, hair, nails, etc. ... discoveries, health and fitness, gear and apparel, trends and events that make up an active lifestyle. My goto jacket from Autumn to Spring. I prefer down over synthetic and have never had an issue with it getting wet but I don't live in a rainy area. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa seems patient to wait it out but also eager to find out the status of his gear at C2. traction for any footwear. • K2 2014 Summit Glove system is critical here. Use stuff sacks for small items and hoods for jackets or just stuff them into the open space in your pack. Icebreaker's merino wool feel great, doesn't stink and keeps me dry. Excellent sound quality(and bass) but also doubles as outstanding ear plugs for noisy nights. New Rules Make Everest Pricier Than Ever. consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Works in heavy rain and wind. Free software that runs on your server and enables automatic posting from PDA or PC. Canon G10 $500 A means it is always in my pack from a 14er to Everest, K2. Double bag powders. He is also the founder and editor of the site Hiking the Ozarks. First, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. Eye Shades and Ear Plugs, Adventure Medical Kits Dan is a field ambassador for Lowa boots and regularly tests and reviews gear for various outdoor companies and places like the Gear Institute, Backpackers Review and Backpacker Magazine. • Bolivia 2019 1. Be careful about how you will use it, number of people, since size does matter as does weight. Splurge on an excellent pad - the weight tradeoff is not worth a good night's sleep. Nice pillow when stuffed in a small pillow case from home. Probably the single most useful jacket I own. Love this but MH has discontinued and a bit heavy and bulky so looking at the Patagonia Capilene® Thermal Weight One-Piece Suit which would break my "only merino wool next to skin" rule. Hestra Alpine Pro $160. Ion Wind shirt A popular feature on the site are gear reviews. It's been confirmed that high winds have destroyed Camp 2 along with the tents and gear. Canisters are easier but not as efficient at extreme altitude plus the waste and leakage issues. Losing interest in the expensive Hestra - not warm for me. Must for cloudy days when panel will not work. locking, twisting, snap. Used on Denali with Koflachs and Kaylands. This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. However, still need stronger layer in extreme winter winds. see complete disclaimer. Needs to be polarized, easy on/off with 100% UV A and B.For 8000m peaks need clear and dark lens. A personal website for Alan Arnette's mountain climbs around the world: Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali, Rainier, Longs Peak, Colorado 14ers all … Mostly nylon so dries quickly. Note: not good in heavy rain so use trash bag as liner. I used the Feather 20 to keep my Sat phone charged - carried it with me in my day pack and to High Camps - very lightweight. Thermarest is solid. Consider. Also works well under helmet. Love the hood. Steripen failed on Aconcagua so don't use anymore on critical climbs. Great value. Very warm with Patagonia Ultralight Down (see below). • High Mountain Comparisons no tunes or lights without power. • Gear Reviews Simple and sometimes effective water purification Used ultraviolet light. Boots are very personal and you cannot go wrong with most name brands today. Warning - they seem to break easily have gone through multiple pairs. Alan's Gear Rules (under continuous development) The prices are US list. 3. DISCUSSION FOR 2020 Lithium are best for cold. Used on Everest, K2, etc. keep hands clean without water. On my top are wind or warmth layers usually the Patagonia Nano-Air jacket and/or Patagonia Ultralight Down Hoody and/or Mountain Hardwear Trinity Shell. Take a lot. It holds a hydration bladder plus the 10 essentials. Have replaced SPOT with InReach as it allows for custom messages plus current GPS location. Get different shape and color for pee bottle!Have had recent problems with Nalgene cracking and leaking. Sheepskin lined boots that are warm and comfortable. Best with nose guard in bright snow conditions (Denali). Don't forget Toilet Paper! The Black Diamond Speed is a great summit pack, daypack for ice climbing, an overnight climb or just a walk-up. 9. Don't overlook Used Overboots as a warmth option - it works well and saves money over buying multiple boots. Neutrogena's UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion is excellent. Used on all climbs successfully. Liquid filled with mirror. I have brands with zip-off legs but never use. Good warm socks may be easier solution! Used on Rainier in 2015. I only use long selves and collars for sun protection plus zips for venting. Get the heaviest fabric to avoid tearing by luggage handlers and the largest size available. Lightweight, extremely warm - with hood. Can use with BD Mercury mitts. September 2, 2020 Opinion and advice alan arnette, climbing fatalities, commercial mountaineering, everest, himalayan database, media sensationalism, seven steps from snowdon to … Neutrogena's Spectrum Plus Sunblock and Lip baum in outside pockets for easy access and frequent use.